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Magnificent North Bengal represents the most richest places in Bangladesh which are the gem of tourism. Remains of the ancient rampart of Mahasthangarh, complexly decorated Bangladesh’s pride Kantaji Temple and mosques inspired from Mughal Era are the reminders of our country’s diverse culture and past. Tetulia Upazilla is the farthest corner of Bangladesh and best known as “City of Dream” in Panchagarh district. If you think the view of the Kanchenjunga is the only thing to see in Pachagarh, it’s not true. There is plenty more to explore. I had been in North Bengal several times along with my client firstly by air, secondly with my in-law family by train, solo traveling by bus thirdly and lastly with official assignment by air.
FIRST TRIP TO MAGNIFICENT NORTH BENGAL
My maiden trip to the North Bengal was in the year 2001 with my first client. I flew to Syedpur where official chauffer driven car was there to receive. I was an executive that time who barely thinks about flying in the early stages of my professional career. Though it was an official trip but I fondly remember the trip because I had to cover Rangpur Division for the market visit. It was overwhelming trip. But in return I had to give my professional service to my client. It was like all paid trip by my client with my professional inputs for the brand that I used to handle back those days.
In my return trip, it was pre-scheduled road trip formulated for the sake of market visit. Syedpur-Dinajpur-Rangpur-Rajshahi-Bogra were my routes to visit market places to get insights for the brand I used to work for. It was even exciting for me because I had seen the North Bengal for the first time with thoughtful measure. I halted for an hour to the oldest discovery in Bogra district. Maybe I’ll share separate blog on Mahasthangarh sometime later. One thing I want to tell my readers, I remember my parent’s couple of statements about North Bengal which I’ll share in second part of my trip experience. My readers can correlate that for sure.
SECOND TRIP TO NORTH BENGAL
My next trip to Magnificent North Bengal was full of personal attachment with my in-law family in 2005 in the cold winter. Since it was group tour of 12-14 people traveling from Dhaka to Gaibandha by train, it was so memorable trip in both ways. There were so many good memories to cherish. The love of the people I received from that trip was unforgettable.
In Bangla, there is a phrase “JAMAI ADOR – জামাই আদর” It means when bridegroom visits wife’s house or their relatives’ house, they treat you like a king right after the marriage. The food I ate that time was amazingly at envious level. Wherever I went to relatives’ house, near and far, I didn’t stop anyone from serving me extra food on my plate. I wish I could do that again. I went almost everyone’s house, per say 8-10 houses in 4 days trip. It was my first trip with in law’s entire family. It had a great fun trip. I still cherish those memories with love and affection.
MY OWN PARENT’S STATEMENT ABOUT NORTH BENGALIS
I was recalling my parent’s statement as I was writing this blog. I was perhaps 10 or 11 years old then. It was in 1983 or 1984, when they were traveling North Bengal. My father was socially well networked besides his business hour. He was an active Rotarian. After they returned home from North Bengal trip, I still remember my mother’s conversation with us that North Bengali people are very down to earth person. My mother also told with a smile that they will treat you with Eggplant – বেগুন if you are invited to any fiesta gathering. It was so meaningful statement which I didn’t understand that time.
VOICE OF GOD
At the time of my marriage ceremony, my mother was not alive. But long before the ceremony, her words echoed to me like a voice of god.
Later it was official that I am going to marry a girl whose hometown is in North Bengal. Jokes apart, North Bengali people are really down to earth and delicacy is totally different than that of my hometown. So, it took me little over 2 decades to say this for the first time through my blog post that North Bengalis are too decent to make a lifetime relationship. I strongly endorse North Bengalis are the most down to earth people in Bangladesh.
THIRD TRIP TO MAGNIFICENT NORTH BENGAL
My third trip was a like real traveler in Magnificent North Bengal. After several attempt to visit this place, I was undone previously but this time I went with complete intention to make it happen. It was solo traveling because I planned for a long time to visit Kantaji Temple in Dinajpur. I took couple of days off from my office to explore the gem of North Bengal of Bangladesh in 2012. I wanted to get a feel of backpacker that time because I was traveling alone. Thus, I wanted to be cheaper and smarter traveler in my own way. When I reached Dinajpur, it was night time. I stayed in a single occupancy AC room in a main town that cost not more than 22USD for 2 nights probably.
ONE & ONLY TERRACOTTA KANTAJI TEMPLE OF BANGLADESH
The next morning, after the breakfast I went out for day long exploration. There were two historical places in this small district town of Dinajpur, out of which, I did not know about one. Kantaji Temple, probably the best ever Terracotta architecture in Bangladesh that was constructed by Maharaja Pran Nath in 1702 and completed during the reign of his son Maharaja Ramnath in 1752 which we perhaps all knew. But architecture from the same era and place, Nayabad Mosque of Ramchandrapur Union under Kaharol Thana of Dinajpur district, was not known to all because of non-publicity.
BROKEN LINK TO REACH KANTAJI TEMPLE
Transportation was not comfortable to reach to this archeological site of Bangladesh. I had cross the river by boat and on bare foot, by van, by auto rickshaw and by bus. I was prepared for all these because I was all alone. Finally it was worthwhile to take all the pains. If anyone is interested in Mughal Empire and Mahabharat history, then this place is must visit for them. Kantaji Temple is the only terracotta designed temples in Bangladesh. I highly recommend visiting this place to all my readers. If you hire private car or tour operator, then you can visit this place very comfortably.
ALWAYS CARRY DRY FOOD WHILE TRAVELING
I decided not to have lunch because I had heavy breakfast. It kept me going all day long. But in between I had dry foods like biscuits, cake, banana and other snack items which I purchased from the road side. One thing I should mention that there is a local street food which was widely available in that place. Item was mushroom fry with eggplant. It was mouthwatering snack item, I tell you.
MY BEST TIME DURING MAGNIFICENT NORTH BENGAL TRIP
When I reach to Kantaji Temple, it was around noon time like 1-2pm. I spent more than 3 hours to see its beauty and for taking photographs from every angle of it. I enjoyed the later noon’s photography most because it had magical light reflection on the temple. After exploring the temple with full satisfaction, I went to visit Nayabad Mosque by taking the advice from local people. And it was worth visiting the mosque. I prayed Magrib in that mosque that quenched my pious thirst.
ADIEU KANTANAGAR
After a full day trip, I returned to my hostel with great fulfillment. Dinner was taken from nearby hotel. Afterwards, I took shower, freshened up and was feeling so relaxed. While lying on the bed in my hostel, I was going through all the pictures that I had captured. I slept that night quiet peacefully, I reminisce.
LAST TRIP
My last trip to Magnificent North Bengal was taken place in February 2019 for official assignment. I have mastered the skill of managing office time and travel time during any kind of tour now. I went there with my colleagues just for two days to supervise a regional event for my client in Dinajpur. This trip was just like my first trip. All paid trip. I managed couple of hours in early morning from my office management to explore the city. In the dinner time, I discussed my plan with motel manager, he advised me to take 3 wheeler to see the ruin Dinajpur Rajbari.
RAMSHACKLE DINAJPUR RAJBARI
Dinajpur Rajbari is a living example of deviation from history. History has it that King Dinaj built the Dinajpur Palace in the 16th century. Some say that the installation was made by King Ganesha in the early 15th century. I read in another place in history that the Dinajpur Palace was built during the reign of Maharaja Prannath, the founder of the “Kantaji Temple”. I understood the direct absence of the dynasty as the reason for the deviation of history. In the course of time, this palace is now neglected. I learned from my Tuk-Tuk driver cum guide that the last descendants of Dinaj Raja migrated to India during partition. Since then, it can be said that there is no one in charge of direct maintenance. Some local poor Hindu families carry out unannounced maintenance work from the Kachari house in Rajbari which is less than required.
The palace is in ruined condition. Looking around the courtyard of the palace’s Aina Mahal, it would seem that it was made for a pile of dirt. Unfortunately, we do not know how to look after the ancient heritage. With great regret I left the palace. The government of Bangladesh should preserve the palace and bring it under the supervision of Bangladesh Tourism Board. I wish I could join them.
Article is very informative and insightful.
Thanks Tanzin for the reply.